Philosophies for Dressing
Buy less, think more
Hi. My “break” was admittedly short-lived because I missed writing! This Ad Hoc is about the way I like to dress. I love clothes and I think about them all the time. Picking an outfit is my favorite morning ritual—and usually takes me under 5 minutes. This letter includes my thoughts around personal style, links to my favorite items, and how I make getting dressed as easy as possible.
I think my style has changed a lot since going to college/growing up/no longer being constrained by a dress code. But the principles have remained the same: less effort, less waste, more intentionality. The ADHOC categories that break this down are Accessorize on Autopilot, Dress for the day, Hem your pants, One Perfect Thing, and Crowd out the noise.
A: Accessorize on Autopilot
I’m always in a rush when I’m leaving my apartment. I think accessorizing should be automatic, so you don’t have to remember to add a million things before you head out the door.
JEWELRY: I have two lobe piercings on each ear and I never switch out my earrings. Both pairs are from Studs, one hoop and one sword. I alternate between this necklace from Gorjana, and a pearl necklace that I bought from a friend of a friend (pictured below). I fearlessly wear my jewelry in the shower and to bed.
BAGS: I have a small few bags that I rotate between: a brown shoulder bag from Reformation Vintage in LA, the powder blue Sandy Liang x Baggu collab, and tote bags from art museums. My work bag is the twin tote from Proenza Schouler in a beautiful bluish steel gray. My school backpack is optimized for back support, so it’s from Timbuk2 and makes me look like a CS nerd.
MISC: For other accessories, I believe you only need one reliable, good quality item per category. The initial investment is worth it if you never have to buy a replacement. My Gentle Monster glasses are my favorite things in the world. I have one for seeing and one for sun. They’re designed for Asian low nose bridges, so they never slip. I have one scarf I wear when it’s cold, and a pair of gray fingerless gloves I got in Korea.
I also consider perfume an accessory. I’m still looking for a perfect scent, but my favorites right now are from Phlur (Father Figure and Soft Spot).
I don’t care for hats, rings, watches, belts, and most hair clips.
Find what you like. Stick to it.
D: Dress for the day
I hate changing clothes in the middle of the day. It’s logistically annoying (you have to carry extra stuff, or find time to go home and change, and you have to do more laundry) and there’s a mental barrier I can’t overcome.
One day, I had to go to work (luckily it was Casual Friday), an office field day in Central Park, a dinner party, drinks in the East Village, and a DJ set (lol). I asked my friend what I could wear without having to change. He said it was impossible. I accepted the challenge.
I wore these flowy black Vuori pants that are an athletic material but drape like trousers, a midnight-blue Cos t-shirt that has enough weight to be considered nice-ish, Asics gel sneakers (mostly hidden under the pants, and very good for walking), and my usual accessories. I put my hair up in a high ponytail. By the end of the day, I was sweaty and sticky, but I didn’t look out of place in any of the environments I passed through, so I took that as a win. Also, no one cares if you wear the same outfit all day. They’re too busy thinking about themselves.
H: Hem your pants
Like many other Koreans, I have been blessed with a proportionally long torso and short legs. This means that when I sit up straight in a chair, I seem very tall, but my legs are the same length as my five-foot-tall friends. This also means that my pants are always too long.
A few years ago, I got a bunch of pants that were too long for me shortened by a couple inches. It was slightly annoying process, but immensely worth it. Fabric no longer pooled at my ankles, catching on my heels as I walked. I felt more confident.
The clothes I reach for most often are the ones that fit me the best, where I don’t have to worry about tripping or sitting funny or constantly pulling up the straps. I think the key to this is 1. Trying on clothes and asking yourself if you are truly comfortable (imagine you have to spend an entire day wearing something) and 2. Going to the tailor!
O: One Perfect Thing
I am still working on this, but I want to find one perfect version of everything so it is easier to get dressed. How do I define perfect? It must fit me well, be durable so it can last for years, and be simple/timeless enough that it is immune to trend cycles.
These are what I would consider closet essentials:
Long coat. Last semester I found a leather trench that is matrix-y and butter smooth.
Puffer jacket. If you know me you know how serious this is.
Button down shirt (white or blue). J. Crew has amazing button downs. They’re also always on sale.
White/black t-shirts, long sleeves, and tank tops.
Short pretty dress.
Long elegant dress.
Dark/medium wash bootcut jeans. Levi’s forever.
Black/navy trousers. I wear my dad’s old middle school pants.
Knee-length skirt. Thrift these, they're everywhere and always good.
Black miniskirt.
Loafers. So versatile, and as comfortable as sneakers once you break them in.
Sneakers. Sambas, unfortunately. I also like Asics. Sadly I used to be hopelessly devoted to Air Force 1s. We’ve come a long way!
I used to buy clothes soooo impulsively. Now if I like something I 1. Try it on 2. Sit on it for a week 3. Think about all the other things I could use the money for. Most of the time I abandon my cart. And when I do actually make a purchase, I end up more satisfied.
C: Crowd out the noise
When I walk around certain areas of New York (Orchard Street), everyone is dressed the same. They look so cute! And I often blend in! But I have to constantly remind myself that I don’t need to buy a pair of Moto boots or mini shorts or a Gaultier long sleeve to be stylish. As desperately as I want to take part of some trends, the relief is so much greater when I refrain and it dies out.
I get a lot of inspiration from Instagram and Pinterest and the cool girls I see on the street, but I also have fun shopping in my own closet, discovering pieces I haven’t worn in years or putting together combinations I’ve never tried before.
When I get dressed in the morning I’m thinking about the weather, how much I have to walk that day, and if I have anything fancy planned. That usually narrows it down enough for instinct to take over.
See you next week!
love this and love love love that leather trench!! — is it vintage? x